Growing advice - Cucumbers
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are trailing annual plants that
can grow to 1-3m (3-10ft). There are also a few bush cultivars.
The fruits are eaten raw, pickled or cooked. Cucumbers tend to
be long and green but length depends on the cultivar, weather
and when you harvest them. Cucumbers are warm season crops, with
no tolerance to frost. They must have temperatures of between
18C and 27C (64-81F). They require no added nitrogen fertiliser,
as this will encourage lots of leaf growth and little fruit.
How to Sow for Best Results
Cucumbers transplant badly so ideally sow in situ from late May,
when all risk of frost has passed and the soil temperature is
at least 16C (61F). Prepare holes at least 30cm (12in) wide and
mix in plenty of well rotted garden compost or farmyard manure.
Mound the planting hole up slightly as this will help with the
plants' drainage. When planting the seed, place them on their
side about 2.5cm (1in) deep. Sow two or three seeds per mound,
and after the seeds have germinated remove the weakest plants,
to leave the strongest. Climbing or trailing types (e.g. Burpless
Tasty Green or Jazzer) should be spaced about 45cm (18in) apart
and the bush forms (e.g. Aidas or Carmen) about 75m (30m) apart.
In cold areas protect the young plants and seedlings with floating
mulches or cloches. A thick mulch should also be applied to help
retain water and increase the general soil and atmospheric conditions
around the plant.
From January to April, they can be started off in 7.5cm (3in)
pots, and grown indoors, but as they transplant badly the in situ
method is preferred. Place two or three seeds, on their sides,
about 2.5cm (1in) deep per pot, which is filled with moist compost.
The compost should be moist, but definitely not wet. Wet compost
(which can even be the case straight from the bag) will be cold
and reduces the oxygen that the seeds need to germinate. It may
even stop the seeds germinating at all. If the compost is too
dry this will also cause problems. If this is the case, sprinkle
a small amount of warm, clean tap water over the compost and leave
it to soak in thoroughly. When the compost has absorbed the water,
take a small handful and squeeze it in your fist. If water drips
out it is too wet, so leave it for a short while in a well ventilated
spot to dry off. If it holds together when you open your hand,
it's just about right. You can now fill your pot with the moist
compost and you don't have to water it again before you sow the
seed. Regularly check the compost for dryness. If this is the
case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to
over water. Too much water can kill seedlings, as it can spread
"damping off fungi" and encourage other moulds and diseases.
After they have germinated thin out the seedlings to remove the
weakest, leaving the strongest. Seeds germinate best if kept at
20C (68F). The night temperature should be no lower than 16C (60F).
This night temperature should be maintained for four to six weeks
after the seedlings have been planted out, (follow in situ instruction
after planting out). Therefore harden off and plant out when all
frost has passed and use cloches or floating mulches to help keep
the temperature up.
Trailing types may be grown up canes or fences, they can also
be allowed to twine up strings. Nip out the growing point when
the plants have about five leaves. This will encourage a stronger
growth. Train up the supports tying in as required. When the plant
has reached the top of the support, nip out the tip, two leaves
beyond the last flower. Side shoots will then develop, producing
more flower and fruit.
Greenhouse or plants grown in cold frames are grown the same
as outdoor types. The best forms are the all female ones. Stop
the plants again when they reach the top of the support or it
allowed to trail on the ground nip out the main shoot when it
has produced about 1.5m (54in) of growth and remove side shoots
after one leaf. Keep the greenhouse damped down to reduce any
pests.
All female types may produce male flowers if they are grown under
stressful conditions. These flowers should be removed.
Water regularly and feed with a high potash liquid feed every
two weeks. Keep an eye out for slugs and snails, especially when
the plants are young. If they become a problem, use a recommended
proprietary brand of slug and snail bait. Try to avoid watering
from above as this may lead to a fungal problem especially in
warm weather. Pick off any badly affected leaves and spray with
a recommended proprietary brand of fungicide.
Harvesting Your Crop
Cut cucumbers regularly from about twelve weeks after planting.
The sides of the fruit should be parallel and about 12-15cm (6-8in)
long (depending on the variety). Always handle with care as they
can bruise. Cut them with a short stem and check the plant regularly
for fruit. Regular cutting will produce more fruit.
Flower and therefore fruit development is sometimes a little
erratic at the start of the season. Generally the first flush
of flowers will be mainly female. Female flowers have a small
swelling (embryonic fruit) behind the petals. Most pollination
is done by insects, but if fruit is failing to set, the female
flowers can pollinated by hand.
To pollinate by hand, take a male flower and remove all its petals
and press it against the centre of the female flower. Pollen can
also be transferred using a fine paint brush, taking pollen from
the male stamen and brushing it lightly over the female stigma.
Cucumbers generally don't store for very long unless pickled,
so cut and use the fruit while fresh.
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