Growing advice - Pansies
Pansy, heartsease and viola are common names given to a large
genus of over 100 species of mostly hardy perennial plants. The
name 'viola' comes from the Latin word for a violet and is akin
to the Greek 'ion'. Most are native of northern temperate regions
(7 in the UK) some are from South America and a few hail from
South and East Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Most are small
in habit, seldom exceeding 15cm (6in) in height. The numerous
varieties of bedding viola and pansies are deservedly popular
and provide valuable colour for spring and summer displays. Flowering
is best and longest in cool, moist seasons. Most varieties can
be propagated from seed, division or from runners.
How to Sow for Best Results
Large-flowered viola or pansy seed can be sown either late winter/spring
for summer flowering or in late summer for spring flowering. The
seed is quite small and must be handled with care. Sow on the
surface of the compost, then cover with approximately 1.5mm (1/16
in) of Sow Lite or free draining compost. Sow Lite is a natural
mineral (known as vermiculite), which when exposed to very high
temperatures expands to produce a honeycomb like structure. Gardeners
can benefit from this structure, as it helps to absorb excess
moisture, insulates the seed and allows oxygen through the compost
to the germinating seed. Place the tray or pot inside a clean,
clear plastic bag and seal with an elastic band. This will help
keep the compost moist.
The compost should be moist, but definitely not wet. Wet compost
(which can even be the case straight from the bag) will be cold
and reduce the oxygen that the seeds need to germinate. It may
even stop the seeds germinating at all! If the compost is too
dry this will also cause problems. If this is the case, sprinkle
a small amount of warm, clean tap water over the compost and leave
it to soak in thoroughly. When the compost has absorbed the water,
take a small handful and squeeze it in your fist; if water drips
out it is too wet, so leave it for a short while in a well ventilated
spot to dry off. If it holds together when you open your hand,
it's just about right. You can now fill your seed tray or pot
with the moist compost and you don't have to water it again before
you sow the seed.
Then place the tray or pot in a cool dark place. Cool temperatures
and darkness are important as light and high temperatures can
prevent germination. The soil temperature should be no more than
24C (75F). The temperature should not fluctuate, as this can cause
poor or failed germination. Some seed will often germinate in
10 to 14 days. When germination has taken place, move the seedlings
into a bright place out of direct sunlight. This will prevent
the seedlings becoming tall or weak. Regularly check the compost
for dryness. If this is the case, add a little clean water from
below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill
seedlings, as it can spread "damping off fungi" and
encourage other moulds and diseases.
When the seedlings are large enough to handle, (this should be
after about 3 - 6 weeks) without touching the stem, just handling
the leaves, transplant them carefully into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Grow
on in a cool, frost-free, well lit place, but avoid direct sunlight.
To ensure really well branched plants, pinch out the growing tip
after they have rooted well into their pots. Finally, pot them
on into 15cm (6in) pots or baskets, (depending on the variety,
or where you want them to end up) and grow them on for a few weeks
in a frost-free greenhouse or similar. Gradually acclimatise them
to the outside conditions by placing them in a sheltered place
during the day and bring them back inside at night. Watch out
for cold winds as well as pets, birds, mice etc. When fully acclimatised
they can be left out or planted into their final flowering position
for you to enjoy.
Keep an eye out for greenfly, whitefly, caterpillars and other
pests; if they become a problem, use a recommended proprietary
brand of insecticide. Botrytis (grey mould) can, in some years,
become a problem. Try to avoid watering from above. Pick off any
badly affected leaves and flowers, then spray with a recommended
proprietary brand of fungicide. Water the plants regularly and
feed with a general all-purpose liquid fertiliser every 10-14
days. When the plants are in flower, a regular feed with a high
potash feed (most tomato feeds) would also benefit them. Don't
forget to deadhead and remove any damaged flowers or leaves. Deadheading
will promote more flowers and help reduce the spread of any pests
or disease. Deadheading and/or light pruning will help prevent
the plants becoming 'leggy' and keep them neat and compact.
So called winter-flowering pansies generally don't flower in
the winter! They flower most often in early spring or during mild,
sunny spells in the winter. The low light levels and very cold
conditions tend to slow down or halt flowering, until more favourable
conditions occur.
Wild types, like common heartsease, are best sown directly where
they are to flower in late spring. They can also be sown in late
summer/early autumn. Many of the varieties will also self sow
in this way. The seedlings should be thinned out when large enough
to handle to 15cm (6in) apart.
As with all Fl hybrids, the seedlings may differ if self seeded
or seed is collected and sown from the parent plant. To maintain
the true Fl type new seed must be bought from the place of origin.
The plants can be used in many types of displays. Pansies and
violas grow well in beds and borders, as well as in flower pouches
and baskets. The flower petals can be added to salads to make
a colourful show or candied to top desserts.
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